Piedmont and its vines
Know the vines to understand and appreciate the varieties of Piedmontese wines
Most of the Piedmontese wines are monovarietal, that is produced with a single grape.
In Piedmont, the first examples of zonation of wine areas started, defining concepts such as terroir and cru: a specific wine is produced exclusively with grapes from a single vineyard or parcel whose name appears on the label.
In Piedmont there is a large quantity of varieties of AUTOCHTHONOUS GRAPE VARIETIES:
Its fruits give wines very structured and suitable for aging, but depending on the soil have very different peculiarities.
The Nebbiolo already appears in documents of 1300, but reaches the peak of its expression in the middle of the seventeenth century when, thanks to the new methods of vinification introduced in the Langhe through the royal family of Savoy, gives life to Barolo wine and begins to get great appreciation even outside the region. <br>There is, however, a phase of decline at the end of 800 because of the arrival of vine diseases (powdery mildew, downy mildew and phylloxera) that forced farmers to limit the cultivation of Nebbiolo only in the areas dedicated, well exposed to the sun, where this variety is best expressed.
Barbera wines almost always have a pleasing crispness in the mouth, due to the strong acidity of the grape. Depending on the land in which it is grown, it can give wines of excellent structure, also suitable for aging in wood.
The origin of Barbera is on the lands that were first of the Marquisate and then of the Duchy of Monferrato and there are traces of its presence already in documents from the middle of 1200. Its greatest diffusion occurred in 1800, when it was used for the production of a wine destined for popular consumption.
Today the area dedicated to this variety has been slightly reduced, but in return it has obtained a great revaluation, placing it in close competition with Nebbiolo.
Depending on the area and type of winemaking, it can also be austere and important and can age up to six seven years. It tends to produce a high number of bunches that winegrowers try to reduce in order to optimize ripeness and quality. It is a variety that fears rain near the harvest and requires in general many care to ensure optimal fruit.
In autumn its leaves are distinguished by the red-orange shades that go to color the hills with patches of very warm tones.
This vine has a rich history of appreciation even beyond the local borders, having even reached the tables of King Louis XIV thanks to the Piedmontese diplomacy. The early ripening of the grapes contributed to its spread throughout the south of Piedmont, but towards the end of the 19th century it was downsized to give space to the cultivation of the Moscato grape variety, especially in Asti and Valle Belbo.
The name almost certainly comes from “grignole” dialectal term of Asti to indicate the grape pips particularly numerous. The Grignolino was once also called Barbesino.
One of the forefathers of the vast Moscato family, he found his land of choice in Piedmont and in particular on the gentle hills of Monferrato.
The grape variety of Muscat Blanc has ancient origins that date back to the time of the Romans, but has reached its exploit since the second half of 1500 when the winegrowers of Langa were obliged to plant in the new vineyards a percentage of this variety.
From that moment on, there are many references to this grape, in various documents, and then to the sparkling techniques imported from France in the second half of 1800 by Carlo Gancia. New studies followed to improve production techniques, such as the Martinotti system of sparkling wine in large containers.
It prefers light and sandy soils facing south-east and west, with a good temperature range and far from the spring toasts. It sprouts in the third decade of April. The origins of this white grape are not very clear, but there are references to the name “arneis” since 1800.
Historical references to this variety describe it as valuable and of high quality. At the beginning of 1900 Arneis was considered the most precious white grape: in 1920 it reached the price of 28£ per myriad, double of the other varieties.
It was first used to produce sweet wines, but starting from the ’60s it began the vinification in purity to obtain an elegant wine, dry, soft and with fruity and floral hints.
The origins of the Brachetto vine are not very clear. It is hypothesized a French origin, in Nizzardo (Vitis vinifera niceanenis), then there is some reference to the beginning of 1700 when Brachetto is mentioned together with Moscato, among the wines served at the court of Savoy. In ‘800 it appears listed in a publication published by the Royal Agricultural Society of Turin among the types of vineyard present in the Canavese and Valle d’Aosta and in an exhibition of grapes in Rocchetta Tanaro.
At the end of 1800 two types of Brachetto began to emerge, the Piedmont, aromatic, and that of Nizzardo, simple flavor. With the arrival of the spumantizzazione techniques in Asti at the beginning of the ‘900, the brachetto is very successful as a base for sparkling wines, seeing recognized its aromatic characteristics and floral hints.
After a dark period that lasts for almost the entire century, in the ’90s it finds appreciation and recognition, still in force today.
It is rather difficult to cultivate as it is not very robust and requires very favorable weather conditions.
In documents of the end of 1600 there are already references to vineyards of Cortese, but it will be with Demaria and Leardi in their work of 1870 on the vines cultivated at the time that Cortese is officially recognized as a typical variety of the Alexandrian area.
Recently it has been developed in sparkling version, excellent to match with fish dishes. The production, still rather limited, makes it a niche wine.
The DOC is currently: Colli Tortonesi Timorasso, including the subzone Terre di Libarna.
It has been cultivated in the province of Alexandria since ancient times: there is evidence of it as early as the fourteenth century, in the Treaty of Agronomy of Pietro de’ Crescenzi, and in the Bulletin Ampelografico del Di Rovasenda, of 1885 that indicated this vine as the most cultivated in Tortonese. <br><br>Over the centuries it has been slowly abandoned in favor of the more productive and less delicate red berried grapes such as Barbera and Croatina.
In the 80s some winegrowers of Tortona, primarily Walter Massa, decided to bring it back to life, betting on its great potential.
The Pelaverga vine was then introduced in the town of Verduno in the seventeenth century by Blessed Sebastiano Valfrè, who brought some vines grown in the area of Saluzzo. The vine, also because of the little constant production, seemed doomed to disappear.
In the 70s, thanks to the intuition of some winegrowers of Verduno, the Pelaverga was recovered and saved from extinction.
The name Bonarda comes from the adjective “good”, in fact this grape is also often used as table grape.
The first time the name “Bonarda” appears in an official document dates back to the end of 1700 to indicate a red grape variety of the Turin hills.
Subsequently, other synonyms were used to define the same grape variety as Bonarda di Chieri, Bonarda del Monferrato, Bonarda di Gattinara or Uva Balsamina.
Since the eighteenth century it has been cultivated in Upper Piedmont(Alto Piemonte) provinces of Novara, Vercelli and Biella, where it is also vinified in purity in the two appellations of the area (Coste della Sesia and Colline Novaresi), and enters the Lessona DOC blend, Bramaterra, Boca, Fara and Sizzano and DOCG Gattinara and Ghemme.
The ripe bunch is recognized for its golden color and rust stains. In his monograph, Fantini mentions the Nas-cetta already in the middle of 1800 as a typical variety of the municipality of Novello, where still today are most of the vineyards.
In the past this grape was both consumed at the table and vinified in blends with Favorita to obtain wines with a greater olfactory breadth. Today it is processed in purity to enhance all its potential, both as a young wine and aged in wood.
He was able to win the sympathies of the Piedmontese winegrowers over time, to become “Uva Favorita” as it is able to resist vine diseases such as powdery mildew and easy to work as the shoots have a natural upright posture that favors the stocking and the bunches know how to distribute in a balanced way ensuring a good maturation.
It is very robust and productive and is cultivated in the hilly area of Roero, typical for its sandy soil.
The “Favorita” grape was appreciated as a table grape and the wine produced was often used for blending with other local red wines, such as Nebbiolo or Barbera. In the first half of 1900 the cultivation of this variety has dropped a lot, to leave room for other red grape varieties, but recently we see its revaluation at the birth of new plants in Roerina land.
Il vitigno viene utilizzato in purezza nella produzione di alcuni storici vini canavesani Le prime notizie sull’erbaluce risalgono al 1606, quando viene menzionato con il nome di Elbalus in un testo di Giovan Battista Croce, gioielliere presso il duca Carlo Emanuele I di Savoia.
Le sue origini sono piuttosto controverse: secondo una teoria ormai poco accreditata deriverebbe da una varietà di Trebbiano, conosciuta in Lombardia con il nome di Bianchera. Indagini genetiche più recenti lo collegano invece con un altro vitigno piemontese, il Cascarolo bianco.
Prima dell’introduzione dello Chardonnay l’Erbaluce è stato per lungo tempo l’unico vitigno a bacca bianca raccomandato nel territorio della Città metropolitana di Torino. La tradizionale forma di allevamento utilizzata nel Canavese per l’erbaluce è la pergola, anche se attualmente sono diffuse anche altre forme di allevamento.
The vine is used alone in the production of some historic Canavese wines The first information about the herbarium date back to 1606, when it is mentioned with the name of Elbalus in a text by Giovan Battista Croce, jeweller at the Duke Carlo Emanuele I of Savoia.
Its origins are rather controversial: according to a theory that is now not well known, it derives from a variety of Trebbiano, known in Lombardy as Bianchera. More recent genetic investigations connect it with another Piedmontese vine, the white Cascarolo.
Before the introduction of Chardonnay, Erbaluce was for a long time the only white grape variety recommended in the territory of the Metropolitan City of Turin. The traditional form of breeding used in the Canavese for the herb is the pergola, although other forms of breeding are now widespread.
Il Freisa ha una storia molto antica, infatti le prime testimonianze scritte risalgono al cinquecento quando un vino molto pregiato con il nome di Fresearum veniva inserito in alcuni tariffari della dogana piemontese del comune di Pancalieri, nell’attuale provincia di Torino.
Il Di Rovasenda lo inserì tra i più diffusi vitigni del Piemonte nel suo Album ampelografico. Sono documentate almeno due varietà di Freisa, la Freisa Piccola, meno produttiva e più adatta alle zone collinari, e la Freisa Grossa, più produttiva ma qualitativamente meno pregiata.
Croatina is used exclusively in blends with other varieties, such as Bonarda Piedmontese and Vespolina in Novarese and Oltrepò with Barbera and Uva Rara, to which it adds softness and color.
From the varietal Croatina vinified in purity, it is obtained a wine of ruby red color and violet reflections, intense scent, floral with hints of violet, spiced with cloves and pepper, fruity with hints of cherry, berries and jam jam; fresh, warm, slightly tannic, full-bodied. Particularly important are the characteristics linked to the polyphenolic structure of tannic origin, such as bitterness and astringency.
Some INTERNATIONAL GRAPE VARIETIES used in Piedmont
It originates in Bordeaux (the region of Bordeaux, in France).
This grape is commonly known as “Bordeaux cut”, from the area where it was first introduced. Recent genetic tests confirm that the origin of Cabernet Sauvignon is to be attributed to a incorcio between Cabernet Franc and the white grape variety Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon has the capacity to adapt to the most disparate climatic conditions and vinification techniques.
Since the first half of the 19th century in Piedmont there was a curious desire for Spumante and certainly the territorial proximity with the prestigious French production areas encouraged this ambition among local producers.
The first step was to plant vineyards such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to have the same bases used in France, parallel to the search for other local varieties suitable for this type of winemaking.
From the land of Piedmont, in particular from the vineyards located over 250 s.l.m., these two international vines give truly superb results.
It is vinified both in red and white and is also used as a base for sparkling wines. Since the first half of the 19th century in Piedmont there was a curious desire for Spumante and certainly the territorial proximity with the prestigious French production areas encouraged this ambition among local producers.
The first step was to plant vineyards such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to have the same bases used in France, parallel to the search for other local varieties suitable for this type of winemaking.
From the land of Piedmont, in particular from the vineyards located over 250 s.l.m., these two international vines give truly superb results.